Volcanic Soils and Wine
What is a volcanic wine? The images below show one obvious and one not-so-obvious answer to this question. Beneath the slopes of an active volcano such as Sicily's Mount Etna, the soil is not only volcanic in origin, but it is constantly refreshed from ash fall. The ceaseless rumblings produce a whole other set of variables for the winemaker, and for connoisseurs to try and interpret.
But more commonly, we see vineyards on the slopes of dormant volcanos or on bands of igneous-based soil from previous events. Even here, the signatures can be detected in the glass, for no other soil type influences wine on a great scale — and in a broader, global theater — than volcanic soil.
In a frequent state of smoldering, Mount Etna provides an ever-present reminder of the soil beneath the vineyards. ©Benanti
The Terra Bianca di Piro vineyard with the volcanic outline of the hills stretching to the north. ©Kevin Day/Opening a BottleWhy It Matters?
In the wine world, it doesn't get any geekier than discussions on geology and its role on wine. I happily partake from time to time, and have even begun to notice certain "tells" of soil types when I taste — a genuine sign that I am in too deep, perhaps. The drama inherent from these soils registers in the form of faintly smoky, sulfury aromas and flavors; lean and precise fruit; and a prickly texture. In these matters of smell and taste, volcanic wines suggest that grape variety matters less than the magic happening underground. In other words, a familiar grape such as Chardonnay will lose some of its identifiable traits in volcanic soil, and take on a whole new role.
It is important to note that wines from volcanic soils are not better, they're just very unique. And best of all, you do not need to be a practiced taster or wine expert to notice them. They can be quite obvious.
But we also like to call these wines out from a storytelling standpoint. Whether it is because the vineyards reside next to an active volcano, or the pH level of the ancient volcanic soil lends it a resistance to certain pests, volcanic wines always seem to have a compelling tale to tell. There is no question that tending these vines requires an extra set of management tools and savvy for winegrowers.
Since we focus on Italy quite a bit here on Opening a Bottle, we come across volcanic wines a great deal, but they're found all over the world. No matter the distance that separates them, their commonalities are a blast to explore.
Some of Our Articles on Volcanic Wine
