Wines to Seek Out
Campania is one of Italy's most vital, ancient and varied regions for wine. Yet the international market still seems to be largely unaware of its prowess. In the United States (i.e. outside New York City), wine shops seem to be confined to only a small handful of producers. Fortunately, Terredora di Paolo happens to be one of those widely circulated wineries, and they are the perfect introduction to Campania's most important appellations. There are 18 wines in total, with the more appellation-specific wines shining the most.
Terredora di Paolo "Corte di Giso" Falanghina
This Falanghina has one foot in a minty herb garden, another foot in the orchard. It's easy grace and freshness call for a second glass.
Terredora di Paolo "Loggia della Serra" Greco di Tufo
The Greco di Tufo DOCG either impresses or disappoints; there seems to be no middle ground. With Loggia della Serra’s unctuous quality and detailed nose, one can easily file Terredora di Paolo’s version into the former camp.
Terredora di Paolo "Ex Cinere Resurgo" Fiano di Avellino
Skewing more toward the fresh end of the Fiano spectrum — versus the richness of “Campore" (see below) — "Ex Cinere Resurgo" conveys a wild profile of fruit that shifts between stone fruit and melon, with a touch of ginger-like spice to keep you on your toes.
Terredora di Paolo "Campore" Fiano di Avellino
Terredora di Paolo’s superb work with Fiano elevates them over their large-scale rivals in Campania. "Campore" strikes me as one of the finest white wines in all of Italy, conjuring the mood of an old white Burgundy, but with a little more acceleration from the acidity (likely from the volcanic soil). Audacious, sour-peach fruit tones ground it in Southern Italy. Not bad for a $25 bottle of wine.
Terredora di Paolo "Fatica Contadina" Taurasi
“Fatica Contadina” offers a spectacularly aromatic, powerful yet balanced take on Campania's most acclaimed red grape, Aglianico, from the region's most acclaimed appellation, Taurasi. It is reminiscent on the nose of ripe raspberries, wet earth, bitter cocoa and faint traces of savoriness that waver between smoke and truffle.