Terenzuola

Why Terenzuola is Essential

Sometimes you have to remember that borders are human constructs — mere imaginary lines with little to do with nature. For instance, where does Tuscany end and Liguria begin? In a glass of Terenzuola's wine, it doesn't really matter. The Mediterranean coast, with its steep mountains and terraced vineyards, presents the same obstacles (and the same opportunities) on either side of the divide. Only the most determined and clever producer can craft something remarkable from such a labor-intensive landscape.

Ivan Giuliani seems to be that type of individual. Like the vineyards he tends to, his background is not straightforward. Originally from the Lake Maggiore area, Giuliani would summer on the family farm in the Lunigiana area until 1993, when he decided to move there to help his uncle. The farm had been established in the early 1930s by his grandfather, who had returned to Italy from New York City because of the Great Depression. Olive trees, fruits and vegetables accompanied the vines, which had been cultivated only for the family and local markets. In 1995, Giuliani was called to compulsory military service in Friuli, another borderland region. It was during this time, while getting to know local Friulian winemakers, that he decided to commit his life to winemaking at Terenzuola. His first official harvest was in 1999, and by 2006, he expanded to work on 15 hectares of land in the nearby Cinque Terre.

Most of the vineyards Giuliani works with are steep and demanding, with some vines dating back more than 100 years old. Yields are low, but the results are stunning. Giuliani crafts what I think is one of Italy's best coastal white wines, a tribute to his grandfather Ermano called "Permano." The red wines based on Vermentino Nero are thrilling and ideal for warm days when you want a versatile red that can be as equally quenching as it is generous with its complexity.

Wines to Seek Out

Terenzuola started its organic conversion in 2016 and recently completed the process with the 2020 vintage. Cover crops are used, and new vineyards are propagated through massal selection, a wise choice given the vineyard heritage Giuliani oversees.

Giuliani embraces longer macerations and spontaneous fermentation with ambient yeast for all of his wines.

Terenzuola Cinque Terre

Sourced from steeply-pitched, coastal vineyards in the famous villages of Corniglia and Riomaggiore (two of the five lands), this wine is worth tasting for anyone who has visited the famous UNESCO World Heritage Site of the same name. But beyond the touristic novelty of it, this is a damn good wine, too. A blend of Bosco, Albarola, Ruzzese and Vermentino, it boasts slightly sour stonefruit tones and a decidedly autolytic character that I always love. Look for the creamy-meets-mineral sensation on the finish.

Terenzuola "Vignebasse" Vermentino Bianco Colli di Luni

Can I just say that this is one of the coolest wine labels I've come across? I know: never judge a book by its cover, but books are never table-side conversation pieces to a date night like wine bottles are, and for that reason, the label does matter a smidge. Beyond that riot of color from artist Maria Tacchini, this wine is an outstanding complement to a variety of seafood- or poultry-based dishes, with considerable sapidity and a lovely, crisp pineapple-meets-melon tone. Chill the wine to ice cold and it becomes an irresistible "porch pounder."

Terenzuola "Permano" Costa Toscana

Terenzuola's best wine. Made mostly from ancient Vermentino and Trebbiano vines from high up in the Apuane Alps, this wine makes a powerful first impression. It is as though you can sense the climatic tension in the vineyard, as the wine is at once mineral and crisp (hello mountains) yet sunny and rich with complexity (hello sunny Mediterranean). The personality of the wine reminded me of the seriousness of German Riesling as well as the joviality of Fiano di Avellino — an odd but compelling combo that I couldn't help but write down. There is so much intertwined in this wine. Seek it out.

Terenzuola "Forma Alta" Vermentino Nero

With aromas redolent of black cherries, peonies, cinnamon stick and potting soil, I found myself fumbling for reference points on what is, decidedly, a rare indigenous grape. Whether those earthy and spicy notes impersonate Pinot Noir for you (or the kirsch quality has you thinking of Dolcetto), ultimately, this is a red wine for versatile food pairings when you are not in the mood for big tannins and high alcohol. It is lean, juicy and a good candidate for Thanksgiving.