Why Maeli is Essential
Winemaker Elisa Dilavanzo is an up-ender of convention. A native of Rovigo ("the one town in Italy without a vineyard," she laughs), Dilavanzo has found her calling in Colli Euganei, a seemingly random series of volcanic hills southwest of Padua. Here, the historic grape is Moscato Giallo, a member of the larger Moscato family of grapes, and Dilavanzo seems determined to bend this grape as far as it will go.
Moscato is the pop music of Italian wine: abundant, hard-to-escape, overtly sweet and consumed by many with little thought. Of course, this being Italy, there are a handful of different Moscato varieties, but in general, they carry the tune of a radio hit that brushes your ears and cloyingly sticks to the sides of your brain cells.
Elisa Dilavanzo has defied this notion with her Moscato Giallo wines. They are compelling, layered, and even savory at times. That's because many of her wines are vinified dry and handled with the kind of care and reverence reserved for a grape like Pinot Noir. She allows the tones and aromas of her volcanically grown Moscato Giallo to reveal what is usually cloaked in sugar. Her two sparkling wines are so food-friendly — vivid, smooth, mineral, salty — they belong with any course, from appetizer to dessert.
And even when the sugar kicks in — as with a little passito wine called “Diloro” — the story of intrigue remains. All of Maeli's wines seem to suggest that a whole universe of Moscato could exist out there, if only more were experimenting to this degree. By the time my visit at her winery was finished, I found that I still had more questions than answers. In a country that is simultaneously emboldened by tradition and burdened by it, I find it refreshing to come across a winemaker who dares to push the envelope like Elisa.