Wines to Seek Out
Foradori may be best-known for Teroldego, but overlooking the white wines is like visiting New York City for theater, only to ignore what’s playing off Broadway. The skin-contact Pinot Grigio, the Manzoni Bianco and especially the Nosiola are among the most evocative white wines in Italy. View the recent tasting report from my visit to the estate.
Foradori Fontanasanta Nosiola
This may be the most exotic and compelling white wine I have come across in Italy. The great wines of Fiano, Timorasso, Ribolla Gialla and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo may have the stature and grandeur to outflank this little Nosiola, but tasting this wine is like being visited by a woodland nymph: disbelief at its delicacy is part of the experience.
Foradori Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco
White whites do not need to be fruit-driven to be appealing, and Foradori’s Manzoni Bianco is a masterclass in savory emphasis. Sassafras, almond and floral aromatics lead the way, while a subtle, pineapple-like tone carries the wine through to the finish. This is a white wine with tannin, and benefits from some aeration before serving.
This light-maceration Teroldego wine is the brainchild of Emilio Foradori, who wanted to make a statement on Trentino’s “now tropical” climate, thanks to climate change. Meant to be consumed young, its sour-fruit profile and scouring acidity may be an acquired taste, but it is undeniably complex, and as a result, compelling. A red wine to serve with a subtle chill.
Foradori “Morei” Teroldego
Foradori’s three single-vineyard Teroldego are vastly different from one another.“Morei” comes from a rocky, alluvial terroir that receives more sunlight than “Sgarzon,” which seems to make it resemble Syrah a little more than Pinot Noir. Its élevage is also in clay vessels. There is a ferocity to this wine’s acidity that demands aeration, so either plan accordingly or cellar for a few years.
Foradori “Sgarzon” Teroldego
As brilliant as “Morei” is, its counterpart is even more impressive. “Sgarzon” comes from a strictly sandy terroir that is cooler, showing Teroldego’s resemblance to Pinot Noir a bit more on the palate, with a suppleness and length on the finish that is amazing. The aromas of black cherry, raspberry, black tea and spearmint also aid in the Pinot impression. Aged in clay.
Foradori “Granato” Teroldego
"Granato" is the Foradori wine that first captured the wine world's imagination in the 1990s. Hailing from those ancient, pergola-trained vines on the estate property, “Granato” has evaded the temptation of clay to be aged in large oak casks where it belongs. For me, it is Foradori’s masterpiece: flirtatious with its aromas (raspberry? black tea? peach?), disciplined with its tannins, and supremely refined throughout.