Borgo del Tiglio

Why Borgo del Tiglio is Essential

Some wineries shine because they simply act as shepherds for their grapes, ushering them from the vineyard to the winery to the bottle without once glossing over the terroir inherent in their land holdings. But every so often you come across a winery capable of doing that, while also demonstrating wonderful craft in the cellar. Rather than being one or the other, they show that winemaking is equal parts art and symbiotic relationship.

I am not sure there is any other way of seeing Borgo del Tiglio, one of the greatest white wine producers in all of Italy. Established by Nicola Manferrari in 1981, this Friulian winery has some of the very finest vineyard holdings in northeastern Italy. Of particular note are Ronco della Chiesa and Italo e Bruno, two microplots at the foot of Mount Quarin in the Collio DOC which seem ordained for fine wine. Both face the southwest at a near-perfect aspect, both have well-preserved ponca soil, and both are filled with ancient vines dating back 70 years (Tocai Friulano in the former, Malvasia Istriana in the latter).

But if Manferrari's mantra in the vineyard is to let it be as authentic to nature as possible, in the cellar, he rolls up his sleeves and carefully handles the fruit with gentle pressing, and 250-litre oak barrel-aging that feels like the lightest kiss of toast. There is craft to what he does, and much of it has been developed by instinct but also a passion and willingness to learn from the French winemakers of Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne. "I was at the same time a child of scientific teachings and an orphan of technology," he recalls on his website, about how those instincts were often confirmed by the ancient ways of winemaking. During the 1980s, his approach may have seemed outlandish, but in hindsight, many view him as the conscience of Friulian winemaking. And his wines are built to last because of it.

Wines to Seek Out

Borgo del Tiglio produces several wines, with the white-label varietal Collio wines functioning as a stepping stone into the dark-label, single-vineyard high-end wines (the latter of which belongs in any Italian wine obsessive's cellar, none more so than the Ronco della Chiesa). There is also an additional line of wines called Milleponche (a blended wine which focuses on the primacy of Friuli's ponca soil) and Milleuve (a white blend from Friuli, and a red blend from the Manferrari's estate in Marche). Of these wines, these are the standouts.

Borgo del Tiglio Collio Chardonnay

In a country flush with beautiful indigenous grapes, what is the point of Chardonnay? Well, considering that this grape is the gold-standard for fine white wines, somebody ought to respond. No other Italian I've encountered has a better response than Nicola Manferrari. His white-label Chardonnay (yes, the entry level Chardonnay) is elegant, refined, layered and profound, with a lovely saline quality on the finish that says "go back for more."

Borgo del Tiglio Collio Sauvignon Selezione

And what's the point of Italian Sauvignon Blanc? Again, Manferrari has the perfect response. On a par with Venica e Venica's Ronco delle Mele (together, they're the two best Sauvignon Blanc I've encountered outside of France), Borgo del Tiglio's Sauvignon Selezione carefully balances the feral notes of the variety with the restrained elegance of Friuli's winemaking culture. There is nothing "in your face" about it; rather, a long and steady beauty worth meditating over.

Borgo del Tiglio "Ronco della Chiesa" Collio Friulano

The most iconic wine from Borgo del Tiglio, where Manferrari's craft and Collio's terroir intertwine the most. Hailing from a steeply pitched vineyard behind the winery and adjacent to Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Brazzano, this age-worthy Tocai Friulano wine has a compelling story behind it. Suggestive of bright and lush apples, orange tea, lovely floral aromas and a faint but necessary hint of toast, the wine also carries the same salinity signature of the Collio that rounds out every sip on the finish.

Borgo del Tiglio "Italo e Bruno" Collio Malvasia

Also on the lower slopes of Mount Quarin, Ronco della Chiesa's counterpart is a triangular-shaped, clos-like vineyard filled with ancient Malvasia Istriana vines called Italo e Bruno. Here, Malvasia Istriana's eager stone-fruit juiciness takes on a more reserved form, but is highlighted by sensations akin to citrus, salty air and spring flowers. In the United States, this wine is only sold on-premise (in other words, you'll likely only find it at high-end restaurants with a carefully curated wine list). A cognescenti wine if there ever was one.