Wines to Seek Out
Badia a Coltibuono has long been a leader in organic viticulture, beginning their conversion in 1985, and receiving certification in 2000. There is a patient maturity to these wines that feels immune to fashion. They are Tuscany as the timeless idyll we wish to receive. There are two brands at work here: Badia a Coltibuono for the estate wines and Cultusboni, which operates on a négociant model.
Badia a Coltibuono does not offer a Chianti Classico in the Gran Selezione category, which the consorzio is trying to promote as the grandest expression of the area. Stucchi told me that this designation — in which the wine is aged for 30 months instead of the 24 months of Riserva — does not really represent the “top of the pyramid” to him. He has no problem with the designation; it is just not a good fit for Badia a Coltibuono, which has a reputation for delicacy to uphold. I tend to agree with him. Many of my favorite wines from Chianti Classico are annata or riserva level, which is where Sangiovese’s rapturous fruit is best on display.
Cultusboni “Colmaia” Sangiovese
This new wine, a Sangiovese that sees no oak, is as progressive as it is nostalgic. This is what the grape tastes like to winemakers before they move it to oak, and the snappiness and depth of the fruit — as well as an intoxicating aroma akin to autumn leaves on a forest floor — reveal the promise of Italy’s most widely planted grape. At $13, this wine is one of Italy’s best values.
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico (annata)
This brilliant wine will have you revising your word bank of descriptors for Chianti Classico: fresh, vibrant, comforting. Again, this is Stucchi’s interpretation of his land, and it reads like a poem that anyone can understand. The fruit has radiance, while an aromatic cut resembling orange peel and cinnamon bark completes the depiction. And if you are waiting for Chianti Classico’s typical oaky tannins to come smother the show, you’ll be waiting for eternity.
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva
As good as their affordable annata bottling of Chianti Classico is, the riserva kicks the seduction up several notches. It’s deep, savory and fruity, bold yet delicate and generous. If you want to start a wine cellar on a budget, start here. As it ages, it reveals layers of spice, mint and chocolate.
Badia a Coltibuono Montebello
The Chianti Classico Riserva anchors the lineup, but if there is a single wine that best summarizes the generous ethos of this estate, it is their “Super Tuscan.” Montebello is everything Super Tuscans are not. Typically, when you see Toscana IGT on a label, you know what’s coming: international grapes and anonymity. Instead, Montebello is Stucchi’s way of overcoming what he calls “varietal bias.” The indigenous reds used are all worth mentioning: Mammolo, Ciliegiolo, Pugnitello, Colorino, Sanforte, Malvasia Nera, Canaiolo, Fogliatonda and, yes, Sangiovese. The wine seduces with generous tones of bing cherry, walnut, crabapple blossom and a bit of raisin on the finish, and the control of tannins — a hallmark of Stucchi — makes it as forgiving as it is seductive.
Badia a Coltibuono Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
If there is a commonality among the red wines of Badia a Coltibuono, it is their hospitality. They are gracious to those who drink them, and never overwhelming or brash. That warmth shines in their version of Tuscany’s ultimate hospitality wine, Vin Santo. Traditionally poured for arriving guests, this wine ought to be a perennial favorite for those of you who regularly host dinner parties. It’s sweet but not sticky, full textured but silky, and redolent of peaches, apricots and hazelnuts.