Wines to Seek Out
Clos du Jaugueyron is a small, biodynamic and organic winery helmed by winemaker Michel Théron, who is originally from Minervois. The story goes that he came to Bordeaux to study viticulture with the plan of returning to his family estate in southern France. But, as sometimes happens, he fell in love — both with his future wife, a Bordelaise, and with the terroir of the Médoc. Over time, they were able to acquire 7 hectares in Arsac, Cantenac and Marguax and create a fleet of wines that represent an alternative perspective on Bordeaux blends.
Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc
This is the kind of wine that ought to have us reconsidering the entire region of Bordeaux (but it seems to be just a rare bird, perched in a tree filled with crows). Lightly extracted yet complex and nuanced, this wine leaves behind the hammer and nails and opts for potter's clay to build its structure: a supple, even-surfaced yet robust wine revealing notes that had me thinking of red currants, raspberries, orange zest, red tea and tanned leather.
Clos du Jaugueyron "Nout" Margaux
This is the elegance of Margaux that so many people talk about, but that is often missing. Nearly every sensation of Cabernet Sauvignon's cherry-like fruit can be experienced here — sour, sweet, bitter, light, dark, refreshing. A cut like black pepper lends spice, lift and intrigue through to the finish.