Clos du Jaugueyron

Why Clos du Jaugueyron is Essential

In many ways, the greater Bordeaux region — but especially the Médoc — still clings to an ideal of wine that is outdated and one-dimensional. Part of the problem remains that new oak seems to slather the wines like a wool sweater, and sulfur use would lead you to believe that they intend to age these wines into the next millennium. The wines seem afraid of something: an imperfection, a chink in the armor. And their devoid of fun.

But then there is the aspect of Bordeaux that feels really outdated: its obsession with prestige. The en primeur system was never designed for the consumer; merely to drum up hype and launch prices higher.

Michel Théron seems immune to all of this silliness. He is a rare thing: a grower-winemaker in Margaux. He takes a low intervention approach in his winemaking, and while it would be easy to say that these wines are just naked versions of Bordeaux, that would do a disservice to the impeccable craft he has shown. The wines from Clos du Jaugueyron are not only the most delicate I have tasted from Bordeaux, but some of the most elegant I've tasted anywhere. They not only advocate strongly for a new perspective on Bordeaux — they also show natural winemakers how it should be done. There is extreme meticulousness in these wines, which I've missed in the many natural wines that play in the space of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and especially Cabernet Franc. There is no brett, no volatile acidity, and no mousiness. Just purity.

Everything about these wines checks the "yes" box in terms of what I look for in a wine: They are aromatic and shape-shifting, full of surprises with each sip, modest enough to complement a wide array of cuisine, yet bold enough to imprint in my memory. I love this tightrope walk, and it would be wonderful to see more wines from Bordeaux like Clos du Jaugueyron.

Wines to Seek Out

Clos du Jaugueyron is a small, biodynamic and organic winery helmed by winemaker Michel Théron, who is originally from Minervois. The story goes that he came to Bordeaux to study viticulture with the plan of returning to his family estate in southern France. But, as sometimes happens, he fell in love — both with his future wife, a Bordelaise, and with the terroir of the Médoc. Over time, they were able to acquire 7 hectares in Arsac, Cantenac and Marguax and create a fleet of wines that represent an alternative perspective on Bordeaux blends.

Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc

This is the kind of wine that ought to have us reconsidering the entire region of Bordeaux (but it seems to be just a rare bird, perched in a tree filled with crows). Lightly extracted yet complex and nuanced, this wine leaves behind the hammer and nails and opts for potter's clay to build its structure: a supple, even-surfaced yet robust wine revealing notes that had me thinking of red currants, raspberries, orange zest, red tea and tanned leather.

Clos du Jaugueyron "Nout" Margaux

This is the elegance of Margaux that so many people talk about, but that is often missing. Nearly every sensation of Cabernet Sauvignon's cherry-like fruit can be experienced here — sour, sweet, bitter, light, dark, refreshing. A cut like black pepper lends spice, lift and intrigue through to the finish.