Wines to Seek Out
As noted, Albert Mann's reputation is staked to Pinot Noir, but the white wines — particularly a very fine Gewurztraminer — warrant close attention. This is an estate with ample holdings in some of Alsace's most notable Grand Cru.
Albert Mann Grand Cru Schlossberg Alsace Riesling
Hailing from one of Alsace's most esteemed vineyards, this Riesling deals a royal flush of crisp apple, lime peel, custard and white flower-like tones with a mineral edge serving as the ace. Richer, more amplified and dramatic than Albert Mann's other Riesling, it could last for 20-plus years in the cellar with great ease.
Albert Mann Grand H Alsace Pinot Noir
Since Alsatian Pinot Noir cannot yet claim Grand Cru status, you often see a lot of letters on the label — a "cheat code" for the wine's vineyard of origin. In this case, the H refers to the Grand Cru Hengst, the "stallion" of vineyards where the Barthelmé brothers have a cherished plot of Pinot Noir that yields a savory, spicy and juicy wine with tremendous length.
Albert Mann Grand P Alsace Pinot Noir
The P here refers to the Grand Cru Pfersigberg — again, a work-around from the local wine laws. This Pinot Noir offers a more elegant counter to the muscular Grand H, detailing black-tone fruit and violets with a leading edge of minerality for an additional shot of energy through the mid-palate.
Albert Mann Les Saintes Claire Alsace Pinot Noir
Encountering a handful of great Pinot Noir is one thing, but this wine convinced me that Alsace really has the goods to be a future star for the grape. That's because as this luscious Pinot Noir ages — reaching the eight- to 10-year mark — it transitions into a more complex yet still ever-generous version of itself. There is a noticeably darker tenor here, conjuring memories of espresso and black plums. If you like your Pinot Noir to have savoriness, then this is a wine to seek out.
Albert Mann Grand Cru Furstentum Gewurztraminer
Last tasted with 13 years of age on it, Albert Mann's Gewurztraminer from the Grand Cru Furstentum swaddles the palate in a blanket of floral, honeyed, tea-like tones. It is quite possibly the best Gewurztraminer I've ever encountered.