“Would you like an espresso?” Elisabetta Foradori asked, shortly after my friend Clay and I walked through the door of her winery. It was 9am and the alpine light entering through the windows was soft and rich. The kitchen beyond, where she was leading us, looked like an inviting place to chat about wine. You are Elisabetta Foradori, I wanted to reply. If you are making espresso, of course, I will have one. (Alas, “yes, please” seemed like a more appropriate response).
A few days earlier, in Alto Adige, an editor of a major wine publication had told me that Foradori was a serious place. Subliminally, the message seemed to be ask good questions or they’ll send you on your way. Or maybe it was that is no place for a self-published “blogger” to land an interview. Clay, who freelance writes for several national publications, had been “warned” as well, but by a natural-wine focused sommelier: Have your act together. Know your stuff. Don’t waste Elisabetta’s time.
Where had these two industry insiders met Elisabetta? At crowded, noisy trade tastings in America. We were in her kitchen, and she was making us espresso. How lucky we were.
But as our conversation with the patron saint of the Teroldego grape began, I quickly saw how that message — that I should somehow be dumbstruck in her presence — was completely misguided. It is true that in many ways, Elisabetta is the opposite of so many Italian winemakers I’ve encountered, who disarm with self-deprecating humor and seem as delighted to charm a room as they are to please palates. Elisabetta is measured and precise with her words, while maintaining a fiery-eye contact that is difficult to break. She is more like the esteemed professor on campus with a reputation for demanding curricula.
I was at her winery to see her vineyards firsthand, to taste through her collection of wines, and to hear her story. The agenda was the same as any other winery visit. But I quickly felt like she was not going to let me leave without first challenging my understanding of the natural world around us.
Explore This & Other Stories
Ronchi di Cialla’s story is profiled in my new book, Opening a Bottle: Italy, which is now available in hardcover from BookBaby and via E-book on openingabottle.com.
The book includes several new stories and 100 Wines to Admire from across Italy. Get your copy today!
Tasting Report: Foradori Wines, 2018 Vintage
Next up, read my tasting report of the 2018 vintage at Foradori, featuring one of Italy’s most compelling white wines, as well as the iconic 2017 “Granato” Teroldego.
