Montenidoli

Why Montenidoli is Essential

Montenidoli is both a mountain and a woman. Elisabetta Fagiuoli has presided over this San Gimignano estate for more than 50 vintages, a guardian — first and foremost — of its biodiversity. Spend any time with her, and you'll hear her talk about the importance of roots, both in wine and in life. Meeting her in situ makes you realize how entwined she is with the mountain itself: they are one and the same.

When Fagiuoli bought the property in 1965, it was to raise her children in harmony with nature. Olive oil production and winemaking were simply a means to make a living. But she kept everything organic from the start, and followed her instinct with traditional winemaking techniques from the past. She also had to swim against the significant current that is Italy's patriarchal society. Undeterred, she stuck to her ways and has been recognized as one of Tuscany's wisest and most meticulous winemakers. But don't expect her to show off this acumen. She is much more inclined to talk about all she doesn't know, and never will know. To paraphrase her, wine is nature, and nature has mystery. Don't ruin the mystique.

But there is also something undeniably special about the terroir at Montenidoli, and its worth exploring. As Fagiuoli's protégé, winemaker Alessio Cecchini, pointed out to me on a tour of Montenidoli's vineyards, Tuscany's climate is distinctly suited to red wines. The upper slopes of the mountain, where an iron-rich clay stains the ground ochre, supports Sangiovese in a beautiful way.

However, a few combining factors in San Gimignano create conditions ideal for the genetically adapted local variety, the white grape Vernaccia di San Gimignano. One element is a band of limestone soil, which runs right through the mid-slope of Montenidoli. Riddled with oyster shells, it lends a distinct texture to every white wine from the estate.

The other element that benefits both white and red grapes is the preserve of biodiversity surrounding the vineyards, which releases cool air at night in the summer, and provides a well-rounded ecosystem to keep the environment healthy and durable.

At Montenidoli, we not only find wines that are expressive of both humanity and nature. We find them as intertwined as anywhere in the world.

Wines to Seek Out

Montenidoli is comprised of 200 hectares in total, but only 27 of those are devoted to vineyards. Another 10 are reserved for olive groves. Roughly 60% of these vineyards are planted to white varieties (mostly Vernaccia) and the estate produces 11 wines in total: five whites, a rosé and five reds. These are the ones to seek out.

Montenidoli "Fiore" Vernaccia di San Gimignano

Montenidoli's purest expression of Venaccia di San Gimignano comes in the bright, mineral "Fiore," which demonstrates an intriguing complexity of citrus-like acidity and herbaceous detail. Aging on the lees lends a rounder palate feel. Seek out this wine for summer.

Montenidoli "Tradizionale" Vernaccia di San Gimignano

To contrast "Fiore's" agility and brightness, Montenidoli offers the "Tradizionale" — a long macerated Vernaccia that is aged in bottle for an additional year. It is mellow and deeply complex, offering tones of white peach and a bouquet of flowers. While the "Fiore" races around the block on a bicycle, the "Tradizionale" is on the front porch's rocking chair telling you stories. Wait for the finish on this wine, where it all makes sense.

Montenidoli "Il Templare" Toscana Bianco

Montenidoli's best wine is neither Vernaccia nor Sangiovese, but rather a field blend of the winery's white grapes: the aforementioned Vernaccia di San Gimignano, but also Malvasia and Trebbiano. Aged for a year in wood and then another in glass-lined cement vats, this ridiculously complex wine never loses its focus. The aromas suggest peach skin, honeycomb and mint, and while the palate is bright and fresh, it is the creaminess of the wine's texture that you will notice most. One of Italy's greatest macerated white wines.

Montenidoli "Il Garrulo" Chianti Colli Senesi

Long ago, it was decided that Sangiovese and white wine grapes should not be blended together. That was the Chianti of olden times, the conventional wisdom goes. We know better now.

To that, Elisabetta Fagiuoli would say "wait a minute ..." The "Il Garrulo" is not only a toast to the older way of making Chianti, but a subtle — even subversive — statement that it can be done with grace and beauty. Sangiovese and Canaiolo and blended with Trebbiano and Malvasia to create a wine that is intense with flavor, yet lean and lithe at the same time. Do not expect fruitiness with this wine: it leads with a smoky, savory and herbal character that feels like Tuscany. Elisabetta suggests that you serve it with tomatoes in any form.

Montenidoli "Sono Montenidoli" Toscana Rosso

This wine comes from the heart: the heart of Tuscany (with its big, bold, beautiful Sangiovese personality) and the heart of Fagiuoli, who waxed lovingly over this wine and the "profoundness" it gives her with age and time.

In youth, "Sono Montenidoli" (translation: I am Montenidoli) focuses its powers on the trifecta of Sangiovese: cherry, citrus and savory. But where it really finds its idealized form is at the 20-year-old mark, where a balsamic character complements the last remaining violets of its youth to register like a bass note on the palate.